The Jefferson Bottles and Counterfeit Wine

Would you know if you were drinking a counterfeit wine? Chances are, if you paid a lot for the bottle . . . probably not. The human mind can be a powerful thing, and there's something about shelling out a large quantity of dough that will make us say that even a terrible bottle of wine is "fantastic, rich, full-bodied, and aged to perfection." Awhile back I read a really interesting article in the New Yorker about the nature of counterfeiting within the wine industry. It was sparked by the sale of the most expensive bottle of wine ever sold at auction - an ultra-rare bottle of 1787 Lafitte with the initials Th J. etched on the side. The TJ, yep, you guessed it, stands for Thomas Jefferson, the third president of the United States and well documented oenophile. The bottle sold last year at Christies in London for a whopping 157 THOUSAND dollars.

That number in and of itself is pretty amazing, but the article gets really interesting when it points out that you can't even be certain that the wine inside the bottle is actually from 1787. The bottle could be real, the cork could be real, but the liquid inside could be anything from a good 20 year old wine to a bottle of Yellowtail. The writer then goes on to discuss the rampant problem of wine forgery, focusing on a few major players who are suspected of it, and sharing great jokes like the Wine Expert of Sotheby's mentioning that more bottles of 1945 Mouton were drank on the 50th anniversary (1995) then were ever made in the first place. If you're looking for a birds eye view of how twisted things can get when you pay exorbitant amounts of money for a beverage. I've added a link to the article on the website here:

http://www.newyorker.com/reporting/2007/09/03/070903fa_fact_keefe?currentPage=all

Wood Chips in Your Wine?

Reading my usual wine blogs and websites this morning, I came across an unusual (at least it's new to me) process in winemaking. Apparently the new oak barrels that a lot of wine is aged in are really, really expensive. As a way to get around spending the money to buy new ones every year or on the labor to clean them out, there are are variety of ways to sort-of simulate the oak-aging process. One of these methods involves literally tossing wood chips into the wine, letting them soak, then straining them out later. I don't know why this weirds me out so much, but I'm a little appalled. Granted, most of the wineries guilty of these techniques are large companies producing massive vintages every year. If you're shooting for a common taste for every single bottle, this is an easy-out solution to reaching those ends. Nevertheless, given the choice between a wine made by a smaller vineyard and actually aged in a barrel, and one of these wood chip varieties, I'll take the former every time. Funny postscript to this idea, apparently Budweiser may use a similar method when they say every bottle is "beachwood aged." Hilarious.

Wine stats in the US of A . . . what are you drinking?

I just came across a study done late 2007 about the wine drinking habits of 20 American states . . . and the results are pretty interesting. On the list of the 100 most popular brands in the country, a lot of them were American, two were Australian (Yellowtail I'm guessing), 15 are French (Red Bicyclette anybody?) and seven Italian. Other stats included in the report are that Americans drink about twice as much red wine as white, and that the top varieties are Cabernet Sauvingon & Pinot Noir, followed closely by Merlot, and the favorite white is Chardonnay. Kind of interesting to break down the habits like this to see what's selling and what's not.

More on "The Wine Trials"

Wow, things have really been heating up over at the NY Times wine blog, The Pour. I mentioned a few days ago having read Eric Asimov's post on a forthcoming book titled, "The Wine Trials," and it looks like lots of people had an opinion. There's close to 100 comments on the entry, not to mention the fact that he's now done three posts on the subject. The latter entries were prompted by a sea of email, including one from the author of the book. Turns out the two know each other, and Eric managed to get his hands on a preview copy of the book to re-assess his opinions. The results were overall more positive, and kind of interesting. This is the type of dialogue only possible on the internet, and I've really enjoyed watching it unfold. There's a link a few days ago for the original entry, and if you'd like to read The Pour's most recent take on things have a look here -

http://thepour.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/04/22/a-closer-look-at-the-wine-trials/

Wine Terms - Backward

So "backward" is a term you hear a lot in everyday language. Put your car in reverse, it's going backward. Someone is confused, they have backward thinking. But what you probably don't realize, is that it can be used as an adjective describing a wine, and that it's got a very specific meaning. Check it out.

A "backward" wine is one that retains a lot of the characteristics of a young wine, even though it's been aged a pretty long time. Usually as a wine ages, the bold fruit flavors are one of the first things to drop away. If you taste a wine that's aged several years and it still has a strong fruit flavor, you could describe it as "backward." This normally means that that particular wine needs to be stored longer than average to reach it's "peak."

Does Expensive Equal Better?

Over at the NY Times wine blog, The Pour, Eric Asimov is riffing on a new book about "the pomposity of wine critics" and the fact that they don't really know what they're talking about. In the book, "The Wine Trials," the author conducts a blind tasting of 520 wines by 500 tasters, both experts and everday drinkers. Among the shocking revelations is that a bottle of two buck chuck was favored over a $40 bottle of California Cab, and that a $10 bottle of sparkling Brut was preferred over Dom Perignon.

Of course, the concept is interesting, and I'll be the first to admit that I always feel a little bad about ordering the cheapest bottle at a restaurant, and that feeling is driven by a fear that I don't know what the hell I'm talking about. This is one of the many points Asimov hits on in his entry, but perhaps the best moment comes when he's discussing the study's use of "everyday drinkers." He brings up a hilarious (and probably true) point that given the choice between "Porky's" and the critically acclaimed "Persona," by Ingmar Bergman, most average viewers would go for "Porky's." Does this make it a better movie, or just a more likable one to the unknowledgable? Probably the latter. Anyway, have a look at the Pour to decide for yourself, if nothing else, it's an entertaining read.

http://thepour.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/04/11/you-can-please-all-the-peopleor-you-can-make-great-wine/#more-209

Pairing Wine - Salmon

One of the things you hear a lot about in restaurants is that different wine varieties pair better with different foods. Every once and awhile here at wine news, I'll be sharing a few of the more acceptable varieties to pair with a particular food item. Keep in mind that these entries are suggestions, not the rule. Sometimes unlikely combinations of wine and food make for spledid results, so always feel free to mix and match. Today, I thought about starting with fish. Of course, different fish prepared different ways pair best with different varieties . . . so let's go a little more specific and choose just one. Below is an idea for what to pair with what I'm having for dinner tonight - Salmon served in a dill sauce.

Pair it with a nice California chardonnay. These tend to be oaky and buttery, and give a nice even balance to the potent, tangy flavor of a good dill sauce.

Wine Terms - Attack

Today I'd like to share another important and commonly used wine term. Today's term, "attack," is a word that you'll hear a lot when you start going to tastings. It's an important part of sipping a wine, and a good thing to keep in mind when evaluating your overall opinion of a particular glass.

The attack is the initial impact of the wine on your tongue. If the attack isn't very strong or flavorful - this means that the wine is considered feeble. This happens a lot when in a year with a lot of late rains hit a vineyard just before the harvest.

Another helpful article from Wine Spectator

There's yet another great article on kosher wine (and this time cooking!) over at winespectator.com. A nice taste of molasses-cured salmon or pomegranate braised lamb shoulder with fava beans paired with a nice glass of kosher wine seems like the perfect way to wrap up this week-o-kosher wines extravaganza here at mywinenews. Follow the link and enjoy the weekend!

http://www.winespectator.com/Wine/Features/0,1197,4334,00.html

A far more comprehensive kosher wine guide than I could ever provide

So as I mentioned before, I'm dedicating this week to the growing field of kosher wine. From manischevitz to flash pasteurization, I'm doing my best to learn and report on the subject. Wine Spectator put out an article this week that talks at length about kosher wine varieties and even gives some suggestions on the better names to buy. If you're preparing for passover next week, this is an article you should be sure not to miss. Follow the link below and revel in how much more professional wine enthusiasts know than a lowely pleb like me!

http://www.winespectator.com/Wine/Features/0,1197,3722,00.html

Flash Pasteurization

Flash Pasteurization is a method of heating wine to a temperature acceptable for making Mevushal varieties that's become very popular in recent years. Basically, the process heats the wine to the temperature necessary to make it kosher, but avoids simmering or boiling the grapes.

The main issue most people have with the traditional Mevushal process is that heating the wine to such high temperatures is harmful to the wines integrity and flavor. Flash pasteurization has become the number one way to sort of skirt the problem - heating the wine without ruining the flavor. The process may have helped to make kosher wine a lot more palatable, but the idea is still being met with some resistance by Jews whom associate kosher wine with the more traditional pinkish, tea colored varieties.

Mevushal Wine

Mevushal wine is a kosher variety that remains kosher even if it's handled and served by non-Jews or Jews that don't observe the Sabbath. To be considered as Mevushal, a wine must be heated to 185 Degrees Farenheit. This process has been troublesome in the past, because generally, exposing wine to high temperatures for an extended period of time can threaten or even ruin a wine's character and flavor. In recent years the industry has developed some interesting techniques that cut back on this problem. Tomorrow I'll discuss the most used method, flash pasteurization.

What goes in . . . must be kosher

As I mentioned last Friday, this week I'll be talking about the finer points of kosher wine. Like any variety, kosher vino ranges in quality from spectacular to terrible, but today I'll focus on the simple basics. I'll be tasting and talking about several different brands and varieties later this week but for now, lets get to the root of the subject . . . what makes kosher wine kosher?

One of the first aspects of making kosher wine deals with the ingredients. Pasteurization and whom and how the wine is handled all plays a par in the process, but without starting with the right ingredients, kosher wine can't happen. Each and every ingredient, from the yeast to the grapes to the firing agent, all have to be deemed kosher and processed using equipment rabinically certified.

Kosher Wine

Every time I go to the wine store I see a few more varieties of "kosher wine." It got me thinking, what's really the difference . . . I mean, what exactly makes a wine kosher? After doing some research, it turns out that there's really not that much difference at all. Kosher wine is made pretty much the same way as non-kosher table wine (technically speaking, anyway). The biggest difference, as far as I can gather, in the way the wine is actually made is that all kosher wine has to be 100 % free of preservatives and artificial coloring.

The main difference between kosher wine and your average table wine is the way it is handled. First of all, from the vine all the way to the bottle, it must be completely handled by Sabbath observing Jews.

There are several other differences and interesting facts about kosher wine, but I'm going to hang onto them . . . Next week I'll be doing a week-long feature on kosher wine, in honor of Passover. Stay tuned for anything and everything you ever wanted to know about kosher wines!

Wine Terms - Decanting

Decanting is a method used when good bottled wine has been aged in a cellar. Basically, as wine ages it sometimes gathers a setiment at the bottle's bottom. In order to avoid drinking the setiment, the wine is poured slowly from it's original bottle into a glass decanter before being served. The process is done almost solely with red wines, because whites don't tend to accumulate sediment. A candle is held beneath the neck of the bottle so the pourer can see and prevent pouring the setiment into the decanter. Apparently, they use a candle because the softer light is mellow enough that it doesn't strain the eyes and you can watch the neck more closely.

Digital Wine Thermometers

Buying a digital wine thermometer is a great way to ensure that you're more-expensive bottles are always enjoyed at the perfect temperature. They're actually a pretty cool invention. Once you've de-corked the bottle, one end of the thermometer goes into the neck. Adjust the setting to Red, Rose, White, or Champagne/Sparkling Wine and see if you're in the appropriate range. Of course, it won't chill or warm the bottle for you, but the green light will go off to tell you when you've reached the appropriate temperature.

Cooking Wine

So what is cooking wine? Why is it different? Why can I but it for cheap in a grocery store? What are the different types? These are all questions I've asked myself, but now I've done a little research and would like to answer them for you int turn. And away we go . . .

- As simple as it sounds, cooking wine is really just a cheap grape wine that is intended for use as an ingredient, rather than straight consumption. Generally, cooking wine in America also contains food coloring and uses salt as a preservant. Leaving a bottle of wine open to oxygenate allows a bottle of wine to continue fermenting and will eventually turn it into wine vinegar. By adding salt to cooking wine, it keeps this process at bay, so you don't have to use an entire bottle in a few days.

- Really, the only difference between cooking wine and a bottle you'd buy in a wine shop is the quality and the salt.

- They sell it in grocery stores because it's considered an ingredient rather than an alcoholic beverage.

- The most common cooking wine in America is white cooking wine. Other common varieties include red cooking wine, sherry cooking wine, and champaigne cooking wine.

Wine for the kids?

I just read a really interesting piece on the NY Times website about whether wine should be or can be a family affair. It raises some interesting questions and highlights an interesting practice common in wine country across Europe - giving your children a spoonful of wine in their water with the evening meal. It serves as sort of a bonding ritual, makes the kids feel more adult and introduces them to the family business. Personally, I think it's a charming right-of-passage, but I'm sure others would disagree. The article I read was on Eric Asimov's blog "The Pour," but apparently he commented further in his column (which I didn't see). Check out the link below -

http://thepour.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/03/25/should-wine-be-a-family-affair/

Great Wine Writer

I'm keeping it simple today. I just read a really interesting piece on the NY Times website about whether wine should be or can be a family affair. It raises some interesting questions and highlights an interesting practice common in wine country across Europe - giving your children a spoonful of wine in their water with the evening meal. It serves as sort of a bonding ritual, makes the kids feel more adult and introduces them to the family business. Personally, I think it's a charming right-of-passage, but I'm sure others would disagree. The article I read was on Eric Asimov's blog "The Pour," but apparently he commented further in his column (which I didn't see). Check out the link below -

http://thepour.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/03/25/should-wine-be-a-family-affair/

How to Taste Wine

Today I'd like to share the very-basics of how to taste wine. The process revolves around three of your major senses - sight, smell & taste. Tasting each wine, you should examine the taste, the color and the smell to decide how you feel about the variety as a whole. Here's a closer look at each of the three steps.

First, think about how you'd describe the color. Clear or Cloudy, light or dark? Hold the glass up to the light to determine it's clarity and brilliance. Clear and bright equals good. Next, tip the glass and hold it up to a white background. If the edge is faded, it's been aged or is older, if the color is even and consistent, it's most likely younger.

Next, swirl the wine inside the glass to oxygenate it. The swirling opens up the scent and releases the "bouquet." Get your nose in there and look for all the different notes. Spicy, fruity, bold . . . how would you describe it? If the smell is corky or a little off, the wine might have gone bad.

Finally, take a good mouthful of wine and swirl it around. Really moving it around guarantees that it's hitting all of the taste buds in your mouth and maximizing the taste experience. Once you've done that, "whistle" some air into your mouth to open up the flavor even more. Things to think about include whether the flavor is dry or sweet, smooth or bitter, thin or full-bodied. Finally, pay close attention to the after-taste after you've swallowed or spit the wine. Does the flavor hang around? Is it still pleasant?

That just about covers it. Now go out and taste! Seriously . . . go!

Top American Wines

I was over at the Food and Wine website earlier today and came across a really great article for people looking for great wine on the cheap. Basically, it provides a list of the top American wines under $15. The list names the top 67 American wines, then sub-divides them into categories by variety. You should head over to the website and find what you should be drinking with dinner tonight.

http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/sixty-seven-best-american-wines

Wine Books

Sticking with the theme of my last post, "wine in the movies," I thought today I'd share a list of five great books about or dealing with wine. Unlike the movie post, these are in no particular order. Enjoy!

1. "Wine for Dummies" by Ed McCarthy

Don't knock it till you've tried it. The Dummies books have been around awhile now, and they sell for a reason - they're actually pretty good. For an absolute beginners guide to wine, this is a great place to start.

2. "The Wine Bible" by Karen MacNeil

A Great one-stop shop for everything you need to know about grapes, vines and wines

3. "The Oxford Companion to Wine" by Jancis Robinson

Another great all-in-one reference. This one is aimed at a little more sophisticated wine lover.

4. "The Cork Jester's Guide to Wine" by Jennifer Rosen

This is one of my favorite wine books. The comic tone of Jennifer Rosen (wine critic for the Rocky Mountain News) brings a breath of fresh air to what can sometimes be a dry and stuffy subject.

5. "A Hedonist in the Cellar: Adventures in Wine" by Jay McInerney

Jay McInerney came to fame for a wonderful debut novel in the second person called "Bright Lights, Big City." Since then he's written a ton of other books, but recently took a hiatus from fiction to revel in his love for vino. This resulting book is an awesome read.